1959 Edsel Ranger with a Ford 2.3 turbo engine. Megasquirt DIYPNP perfectly tuned with working pulse width modulating idle control. 60lb./hour Siemens motronic IV injectors. Engine settles to ~775 RPM after warmup cycle is complete. Ignition timing is carefully tuned for 87 octane fuel and 12 PSI of boost. The factory TFI distributor ignition system has been retained and works quite well with the DIYPNP. Next modification will be a front mount intercooler and water injection!
The Idle Effect – Saving 10% – 40% On Fuel Everyday
I have a marine Holley 2bbl carb, and I think the idle circuit may be gummed up a little. It runs, it’s just not real happy about Idling. Is it ok, and would it be worthwhile to remove the idle fuel mixture screws and spray carb clean through the passages?
It is fine to do this, but do it this way. Gently, tighten the screws in as far as they go FIRST. Keep track of how many turns it took to do this. Then, remove the screws for cleaning. When you are done, seat the screws and back them out the same amount. You will accomplish more by using either Amzoil Foaming Cleaner, or “Power Tune” (from a Mercury boat store.) Thes carry a special foaming chemical that will rebuilt the carb WHILE YOU WATCH! All the built up goo will be simply foamed out. Try it, you’lll like it!! Also, many carbs have the PCV valve running close by, like in the side of the carb plate. Use the PCV and hose, in this case, to flush out harmfull deposits here. Good luck!!
Also, does it cause a ticking noise as would the exhaust manifold?
Not if it’s properly installed and set up for the engine it’s installed on.
It will shut down but can be started immediately
check fuel pressure. check fuel volume. check for vacuum leaks. check map sensor. check tps. check……. take it to a good mechanic near you and let him diagnose it. you can try to fix it yourself but if all you do is throw parts at it, you may never guess the right one.
Car is an 1991 Accord LX, with a 2.2L engine. Need specifics.
Your best bet is to go to an auto parts place like AutoZone and “cheat”. Thumb through their repair manuals and see if what you want is in there.
If it looks complicated, you might just have to buy the book. When messing with fuel, I recommend you buy the book anyway. Some of the new cars/trucks use a pre-primed fuel line. This is where the car maintains a pressure in the fuel line even after the car shuts off. The fuel pump doesn’t run, but there are valves that keep the pressure up in the line. This is so that there is fuel and pressure readily available the next time you start your car. It also means if you don’t know what you are doing, you’ll get fuel all over the place. I actually saw someone set his car on fire because of this. Well…. he was smoking too….. My god he was a moron. Smoking and replacing a fuel filter, …… ANYWAY, it’s a good idea to know what you are doing, especially with fuel. I’ve had gasoline in my eyes once, and it aint fun. Had to go to the hospital. Get some safety glasses and wear them. Yes, they suck, but so does going blind if you’re not carefull.
Hope this helps
As question says. Two years and several mechanics no help. Possible options: plugs were replaced, new fuel pump. Found a leaky connection on fuel line tightened that up. It will run at idle all day very smoothly. But any acceleration causes motor to run rough with perhaps half its normal power. It will run like that for a minute then drops back to an idle. Seems like a fuel delivery problem. Could I have a bad fitting on my plastic 6 gallon tank or the hose from the tank to the motor. Could it be the carbs? Thanks for any help.
Your V-4 motor has a great trouble shooting devise on it, a fuel primer. When the motor starts to run bad and die, push the key in. If it picks up and runs, you have a fuel issue in the carbs. Because your motor will idle all day, your fuel delivery system is probably ok, if in doubt, squeeze the primer bulb when running bad, if it still runs bad, it is not your fuel delivery system.
If I remember correctly, you have the single power pack and it may have a rev limiter in it. Could be the issue, you will need to take it to a Evinrude shop to have the ign system tested.
I will assume the compression is good and the sync and link is done.
Hope this helps.
I have a 97 Mercury mariner the starts and runs, but doesn’t idle. It will run for a few minutes, and then stalls. I prime the bulb, and it starts right up again. It seems like its not getting fuel, do you think it has an air leak? Or maybe the fuel lines need to be replaced?
If you have to prime the bulb after it dies, then it’s not holding fuel pressure. You have to solve that before going any further, because it could be masking other symptoms.
List closely for the sound of sucking air at the fittings while you pump the bulb. Primer bulb could be faulty. the fuel line, fittings and bulb aren’t all that expensive and do wear out eventually, so if it’s been a few years, might be a good idea to go ahead & replace ‘em now.
Prime the bulb and tilt the motor full up (engine not running) — if you see gas dripping out the carbs then your needle valves aren’t shutting completely, and it’s flooding at idle.
It is a 1991 GMC K1500 5.7L 350ci. The idle is speed is only at 300-400 RPMS at a stop light.
there is a screw on the throttle body that adjusts air bypass it does not move any throttle linkage it allows air through a passage to set idle frank k is right about the idle speed control servo but the screw will allow you to get a reasonable uncompensated idle speed
My nephew has a new rc car. It is a exceed-rc. He has messed with the idle and air fuel mixture screws. Does any one know what the proper settings are?
Turn the high speed needle all the way in, and then back it out 2 1/2 turns. The low speed needle should be flush with the body. That should get you running. After the car is running, you can adjust the idle spped to where it idles smoothly. Good Luck.
my car a 95 Geo Prism seems to idle low. sometimes I start the car it immediatly dies. takes several starts and reving the motor before I can ever put it in drive. I have done all the routine maintenance, new fuel and air filte, new plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap. I do routine oil changes.
NO. check your idle air control for binding or dirty. if you have no idea what i am talking about, take it to a mechanic
I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 3.0 L engine with fuel injection that idles perfect during warm up in cold weather, but idles rough and hard to get warmed up in hot weather, it don’t have a choke like a carburetor does and i need help understanding what i need to do or look for to fix it.